My just obtained 2007 Japanese import ML has a tailboard issue. It unlocks and opens properly, regardless of whether the door switch or key fob is used, but fails to shut. Pressing the button on the key fob yields no response, the closing switch on the door exhibits no illumination, and pressing it has no effect.
Manually closing it encounters significant resistance, necessitating a gentle approach to let the pressure in the ram(s) to dissipate. Furthermore, upon achieving closure, the electric pull-in lock fails to function. It fails to shut completely. In that posture, you cannot access it without using either the key fob or the in-car unlock mechanism. Occasionally, after manipulating the opening switch in the vehicle and the switch on the key fob, it will completely shut manually.
The electric pull-in is nonfunctional.
The importer has invested much - new SAM, new pump, new support struts - still the issue remains unresolved.
I have used the iCarsoft diagnostic tool, and the pinch strips, which I suspected may be the issue, are functioning correctly. Nonetheless, I obtained a present and recorded error code indicating 'implausible rear door locking lever position' or similar terminology (the iCarsoft is incompatible with my PC...).
I suppose that the issue originates from a faulty microswitch in the handle mechanism; if the system perceives the lock as already closed, it will not operate the tailboard. That is my most informed conjecture, anyway...
Is anybody more knowledgeable? Do you have any more suggestions? Has anybody encountered the same issue? How did you resolve the issue?
2007 ML63 - Power Tailboard Malfunction
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MercedesMan98
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A few of suggestions to consider.
Verify that the release lever, located beneath the chrome strip above the rear license plate, is not immobilised in the open position. They often remain in the open position, so inhibiting the whole boot process from functioning.
Exert little pressure on the open tailboard to lower it by about a quarter of an inch before attempting to use the button on the tailboard, key fob or driver's door. Attempt once again at half an inch and one inch.
Attempt to interchange the boot release switch from your other ML and any other components as needed until you identify the element that activates the system.
Verify that the release lever, located beneath the chrome strip above the rear license plate, is not immobilised in the open position. They often remain in the open position, so inhibiting the whole boot process from functioning.
Exert little pressure on the open tailboard to lower it by about a quarter of an inch before attempting to use the button on the tailboard, key fob or driver's door. Attempt once again at half an inch and one inch.
Attempt to interchange the boot release switch from your other ML and any other components as needed until you identify the element that activates the system.
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vendimoto55
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No, the release lever is not jammed; rather, it seems to be disconnected from any mechanism. 'The location of the rear door locking lever is inconsistent.' I would assert that is quite likely the case.
The tailboard mechanical lock will not disengage under any circumstances, and even if I manually secure the lock with a screwdriver shank, it remains inoperable. Your article prompted me to check it out, for which I am extremely grateful. Exuding optimism...
I will not begin disassembling and exchanging components between the vehicles; the blue car is scheduled for service with Terry Gates a week from Tuesday, and if it is resolved prior to that, the convertible need servicing immediately to occupy that appointment instead.
The tailboard mechanical lock will not disengage under any circumstances, and even if I manually secure the lock with a screwdriver shank, it remains inoperable. Your article prompted me to check it out, for which I am extremely grateful. Exuding optimism...
I will not begin disassembling and exchanging components between the vehicles; the blue car is scheduled for service with Terry Gates a week from Tuesday, and if it is resolved prior to that, the convertible need servicing immediately to occupy that appointment instead.
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SteveRulz23
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- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2022 9:35 pm
The absence of an electric pull-in upon engagement with the latch may serve as the indication. It seems to depend on a switch in the latch to determine whether the tailboard is open or closed. If it cannot detect that it is open, it is unlikely to shut upon pressing the button or engaging the latch upon touch. It is an intuition. I have replaced several locks due to water penetration over my experience.
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vendimoto55
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I assume that by latch you are referring to the locking mechanism, A 211 740 02 35, which is shared with the W211 in my 807 model year? If that is the case, everything is entirely comprehensible and very beneficial.
Nevertheless, if the 7Zap schematic I am using is accurate, there exists an electrical connection to the handle as well. Nonetheless, the absence of distinction in component numbers for the handle assembly (A 164 740 04 93 in my case) between powered and manual tailgates may indicate a misleading factor; if that is the case, what is the purpose of such connection?
If you have already replaced the locks, it seems to be the optimal starting point. I believe I will need to do a diagnostic assessment using replacement. Components for patterns are abundant and inexpensive on eBay, hence the expense will be little even if the issue remains unresolved. The most challenging aspect is that I must remove the tailboard trim panel to access it, and reattaching it is somewhat difficult when working alone, as I am.
May I enquire about the symptoms that indicated the need for latch replacement?
Nevertheless, if the 7Zap schematic I am using is accurate, there exists an electrical connection to the handle as well. Nonetheless, the absence of distinction in component numbers for the handle assembly (A 164 740 04 93 in my case) between powered and manual tailgates may indicate a misleading factor; if that is the case, what is the purpose of such connection?
If you have already replaced the locks, it seems to be the optimal starting point. I believe I will need to do a diagnostic assessment using replacement. Components for patterns are abundant and inexpensive on eBay, hence the expense will be little even if the issue remains unresolved. The most challenging aspect is that I must remove the tailboard trim panel to access it, and reattaching it is somewhat difficult when working alone, as I am.
May I enquire about the symptoms that indicated the need for latch replacement?
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SteveRulz23
- Senior
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- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2022 9:35 pm
Typically nonfunctional. Must ascend to the rear to access the tailboard. Observe instances when they open but do not retract electrically. Individuals secure them by forcefully smashing, although such treatment diminishes their longevity. Water infiltrates the high-level brake light and descends directly into the connector.
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vendimoto55
- Senior
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- Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 5:33 pm
I appreciate your assistance and the time you have dedicated.
It is time to get the trimming equipment tomorrow.
It is time to get the trimming equipment tomorrow.
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vendimoto55
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- Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 5:33 pm
I awoke this morning to see that a penny had fallen throughout the night. The handle operates without resistance, indicating that it is not engaged with any mechanism. Therefore, either the linkage cable is fractured or disconnected, or a component inside the latch assembly has been immobilised in the fully open position. I am aware that the real latch has not been engaged. Further information will be provided later